Cookies and Duct Tape: Japan Day 10: Sumida River East, Ueno & Roppongi

1. Edo Tokyo Museum
Took the trains to get to the Edo-Tokyo Museum first thing. THe Monzen-nakacho station was a confusing mess! What a maze. The museum was easy to find though once we got out of the station. Pretty cool museum all about the history of Tokyo. We were able to get through in about an hour and a half but could've probably spent more time.

This palanquin was used by the lord of Tsuyama Domain
in the Mimasaka Province for the daimyo processions. It
was carried by two people in the front and two people in
back. It was made for practical uses compared to the
decorative palanquins for the ladies.

Hand scroll of daimyo procession.

Sashimono is a type of woodwork made by putting together boards of wood. The skill had developed since the early times in Japan but it was particularly enhanced during the Edo period. Sashimono were mainly furnishings, such as chest, desk, chair, and tea shelf. They ranged from extremely high quality projects to works for general use.

The typical house had a frontage of a little less than 3 meters, and a depth of just under 4 meters, for a total living area of roughly 10 square meters. The front door led directly to an earthen floor that also served as a kitchen with its hearth. THe main living area was some 8 square meters and was covered by tatami mats. Since there was no space for a closet, bedding was simply folded and placed in a corner. Families of a husband, wife and several children lived in such cramped quarters.

The Tamagawa aqueduct was constructed around 1653-54
to meet the needs of an increasing Edo population. Water
was taken from the Tamagawa River at the village of
Hamura and brought to SW areas of Edo not
supplied by the Kanda aqueduct.

High-ranking warriors known as "bannermen"
and "household retainers" were divided into
numerous ranks.

Ranks and duties: Clothing and rules for each grade and rank were carefully specified by law and custom. Among "household retainers" for example, only the descendants of fudai were allowed to inherit their rank and household headship; nihanba and kakaeire were normally only granted their position for one generation, though nihanba might extend this on appeal. Bannermen were appointed to positions that centered either on military and guard duties (ban kata) or administrative duties (yaku kata). Over half such high-ranking warriors had no official position whatsoever. These jobless samurai were organized into various groups and only paid fees for small construction projects. Warriors were paid in rice.

Kyusu teapot

Painting of samurai

Edo firefighters were established in 1718 to protect
the townspeople, and the tradition is stilled passed
on today. Standards were symbols for each unit.

There were 47 units, each named after a kana
character. The "su" unit has been in charge of
present-day Tsukiji area in Chuo-kun.

The main disasters that visited Edo were fires, floods and earthquakes. Fires were the most frequent, as indicated in the popular saying "fires and fights are the flowers of Edo." Major blazes, some of which laid to waste the better part of the city occurred nearly every year. Everyone was ready to fight fire at a moment's notice. The bakufu attempted to deter arson by making burning alive the punishment for perpetrators. Fire brigades were established and open areas of the city were designated as firebreaks.

Votive picture of firemen of the "sen" group.

Firefighters extinguishing fire.

News sheet describing the groups of firefighters in Edo.

At the start of the Edo period (1603-1868) the Edo publishing world was dominated by branches of Kyoto publishing houses. But before long, Edo-based bookstores emerged. In 1721 guilds of wholesalers of scholarly books and popular fiction and woodblock prints were formed.

During the Edo period, books were printed either
with woodblocks or with movable type made of
wood or copper.

A board game.

Different types of currency. Gold and silver coins, as well
as zeni, were minted at the gold mint, silver mint and zeni
mint. Gold coins were valued by their denomination,
silver by their weight.

Saigo Takamori Statue
Katsumoto in the Last Samurai based on.

2. National Museum

Went to the national museum, which is supposed to have the best collection of Japanese art. When we walked in there was an older Japanese man who waved us over and then made origami for us. He was super fun and cut and excited to be showing us his origami skills. We walked around the museum for a couple hours and saw some really cool art. They had an activity center where we made kimono shaped postcards with a bunch of stamps in different designs.

Kimono origami

The origami maestro! Loved him.
He's blurry 'cause he was so QUICK!

Sage obi Sashi
Cherry blossom, peony and drum design.

Katabira (summer garment)

Camelia tree and auspicious Chinese character design.

God of Longevity, Bamboo and Chrysanthemum
by Ikeno Taiga (1723-6)

Kyogen Mask (wood w/ polychromy)
17th century, Daikoku type

Kyogen Mask (wood w/ polychromy)
18th century, Buaku type

Kyogen Mask (wood w/ polychromy)
18th century, Kobuaku type

Kyogen Mask (wood w/ polychromy)
18th century

Actor Iwai Hanshiro as
courtesan with round fan
by Katsukawa Shunsho (1726-92)

Inside and Outside the
Mosquito Net
by Kitagawa Utuinero (1753-1806)

Netsuke: Chinese boy with a puppy
design. Ivory, 19th century.

Netuske are toggles that were used to hold inro and tobacco pouches in
place as they hung from the obi sash. With the advent of the Meiji era
came an influx of western culture, and netsuke no longer served any
practical purpose in Japan. However, they captured the hearts of art
aficionados and collectors in the west, and netsuke continued to be made.
In the 1970s, artists responded to suggestions from abroad that they
should study the classical netsuke tradition but make netsuke reflect the
20the century. These netsuke form the core of what is now called
"contemporary netsuke". Prince Takamado Collection is primarily
comprised of these.

Netsuke: Five fukujo design
Ivory, 19th century.

Standing Bishamonten (Vaisravana)

Standing Tenno (Deva King)

Seated Seishi Bosatsu (Mahasthamaprapta)

Standing Juni Shinsho (Twelve Heavenly Generals)

Sword guard - Fish design

Vessel in Shape of Tiger

Mirror, Okinawan

Juro (God of Longevity)
by Hashimoto Gaho (1835-1908)

Footed bowl, with applied crabs and brown glaze
by Miyagawa Kozan I (1842-1916)

Heresy (Trampling a Christian image)
by Kobayashi Kokei (1883-1957)

my kimono postcard

3. Roppongi Spider
Met Greg in Roppongi and he showed us this huge 10 meter bronze spider (called Maman) in front of the Roku Roku Plaza that was designed by a famous French artist, Louise Bourgeois.

4. The British Pub & Don Quixote
Went to the British Pub for some snacks and drinks and then did some shopping at Don Quixote (or Donkey)!

5. Tokyo Tower
Went to the top of Tokyo Tower (well, almost) and saw a great view of the city. It's a little bit of a tourist trap, but totally worth it. On the mid-observation deck there is a place for you to put your 'love charm' if you go up there with someone special. Cheesy, but cute. My camera and cell phone died by the time we got up there, so I'll have to post some pics later when I get them from Greg and Yo.